The Color Infusion
(Your options in suit colors may be limited, but your shirt doesn't have to be boring!)
While the world of fashion seems to be a fashionista's playground, the modern man seems to have been left in the cold! Whereas ladies can update and "sexify" the business suit depending on the office atmosphere, men are still left with very few options, or so they thought!
We understand that the suit can only undergo so many transformations. Suit pants can't be cropped or bootcut to convey a change. But then the modern man must look to change the suit accessories. These include the short, tie, pocket kercheif, cuff links, any jewelry (hopefully minimal) and shoes.
To begin, your suit should be of qaulity. Unlike your female counterparts, there's no excuse to be cheap because your style trends won't change as drastically as her's will. Therefore, with the right investments, your suits should see you through many career promotions.
Pick fabrics and styles that convey strength and add to your attributes. A tall man should opt for pinstripes and a man with a broad chest should choose the double breasted suit to portray confidence, stability and strength. Now for the color! Regardless of whether your suit falls into the standard navy, black, grey or khaki category, your shirt color options are limitless. Again, the expense of your shirt should match the expense of your suit. Cheap thin quality shirts look exactly like that when paired with better quality suits.
We prefer shirts with a little sheen, usually made possible by brushed cotton or silk content. For the beginning gentleman who must leave his college buddies (the loose baggy khakis and ill fitting standard french blue button down shirt) behind, we suggest you begin your sexy modern man transition at Express For Men (formerly Structure). They have an infinite number of shirt colors with corresponding tie options in quality material at reasonable prices. Plus, their associates are very helpful and well dressed so you can take a cue from them. A note: navy and black DO NOT match! So your navy tie with your black pinstripe is a very bad idea.
As for fit, stores are very helpful and knowledgeable. Higher end men's wear stores that offer in house tailors will measure your neck for a perfect fit if need be. We should never be able to see inside your neckline unless you're purposely achieving "The Tie-less Man" look. Shirts shouldn't be tight but the baggy look is equally unacceptable.
Likewise, a properly fitting shirt won't even expose your wrists even when bending your arms. The cuffs should come a half inch to an inch below the hem of your suit arm. Incidently, that style tip infers that your suit is properly fitted and doesn't fall halfway down your hand.
The perfect suit accessory is the tie. It should achieve one of two things:
A. Combine elements of your suit and shirt. (A Print)
B. Be a reiteration of your suit. (A solid...must be a perfect match to your suit)
Again, a black suit with a light blue shrit does not allow for the navy tie! With the printed tie, avoid excessive or large prints. If your shirt is light, try for a tie with a dark background and a small light print. Big prints are only safe in monochromatic tones where it blends into the background.
If you insist on jewelry, keep it simple (read: unless your on the NFL, large chain link necklaces should be saved for the club). Unless you're married, avoid the rings. But if you must, keep it simple and understated. Try for a nice watch with a face that is a maximum of half the width of your wrist. The band width should be no more than an inch and go to a jeweler for a proper fit if necessary. A man with a wrist watch falling up and down his arm is annoying to view and ruins the whole "GQ" moment.
Once you've mastered these basic steps you should have no problem wowing your audience whether it's the office crowd or the party for your cousin Sue's wedding. Proper fit and good combinations should take you far!
Editor's Note:
For the metropolitan man who feels that he's mastered the "Suits For Dummies" and can enter the men's wear store where true measurements are a necessity...here are some of our editor's picks and observations:
1. Unless your browsing Henry Bendel, Sak's Fifth Ave or Bloomingdale's, we suggest that you leave the department store racks for the undistinguished or the gentlemen in process. The selection is usually limited and the quality is not equal to that of a specified men's wear store.
2. With the exception of Express For Men, which is our "men's wear for beginners" store or Sarar which offers in house tailoring and extremely personalized service, avoid the chain stores. Most don't offer specified sizes beyond S, M and L.
3. We suggest Hilfiger for the range of color options and Perry Ellis for their shadow striped shirts, a definite plus for added style without even looking extravagant.
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The bright and colorful windbreaker made popular by designers like Nautica and Tommy Hilfiger are still mainstays. We loved it because it seemed to be the only bit of color in the sea of black and navy. One in particular was the Tommy Hilfiger twist. Talk about double insulation! This jacket boasts an internal down zip vest with the outer protection of the usual windbreaker snaps. Black on the outside, orange on the inside with a typical Tommy patterned lining, we thought this deserved to be highlighted.
And for those of you who feel like the rain will never end, there's something for you too! Inspired by the classic yellow slickers of our youth, Polo Ralph Lauren has given the classic a new twist. Now lining has been added to keep you warm along with a cordorouy collar. All of the familiar snaps and hooks are still there but the slick has been replaced by sleek duck material. Available in eye catching yellow or relaxed khaki, this is definitely for the outdoors man!
And who can forget the male version of the essential wardrobe must have? A man without a decent leather coat is like a man without decent underwear. Don't be caught without it! Our favorites were the genuine leather with minimal detailing. Preferably in black, we couldn't resist touching the matte finish, supple, and soft leather mid thigh length jackets. Buy one and watch the ladies cluster around you!
Let's begin with the "carry-all". This bag is characterized by it's huge size. Big enough to carry all of our essentials, whatever those might be, it's still an attractive bag. The true New Yorker picks a style that flips from the office to an overnight with her boyfriend (if she's unfortunate enough not to leave some essentials at his place). Thankfully, this season, we have a wide variety of colors and textures to play with. Big Apple Style suggests that if possible, you invest in two different carry-all bags. One that's more understated so that it blends in with the office. Then pick another one with a little more pinash so you can break out for a weekend trip to the Hamptons!
Then there's the purse you need for a night of cosmos with the girls. Characterized by a completely useless tiny size, the mini one strap is amazing for creating a statement. This is definitely a "see and be seen" bag, not because of it's size, but because of the design. As a rule, we feel this bag should be flashy just to show off your style power. Pick an outrageous color as long as it goes with your outfit. Add pretty metal buckles or loops. Go all out, it's not like you're really carrying anything in there anyway! Our suggestions: this is the bag to plaster designer labels on. Whereas extreme gucci and Louis Vuitton seems played out in the office, in the lounge or club, catch the eyes of others with colorful designs.
Of course, our favorite bags are outfit matching medium sized bags. On a personal note, I've invested in so many perfectly matching bags in this size, it's almost shameful. But the compliments you get from a beautifully designed, well matched bag are worth it. And again unless you've got a caviar budget don't waste your money on expensive colorful, fleeting designs. Our favorites this season include the bright colorful leather bags that seem to be gracing stores. Bright green or mustard yellow, they definitely make statements and will bring a little cheer to the cloudy fall and winter days awaiting us.
We're also in love with the mini duffel with same tone straps or rainbow toned straps. It's simple and clean lines still look classy enough for 5th Ave or Canal St.
The wide leg pant is the new answer to corporate chic. It's a great way to add style without drawing too much attention away from the task at hand...work. For the best results, wide leg pants should not be so wide at the hem as to engulf your shoes. This also means that the hemline should just touch or rest on the tops of your shoes making them no more than one inch to an inch and a half above the floor.
This is a very sexy pant, but it can be tricky to navigate this style. To begin, be careful of the length . If you are shorter than average or have short legs (unless you have these pants specially tailored) you may want to avoid this look as it can make you look shorter.
Dark denim tends to transcend the price tag. There are pairs of sexy dark bargain jeans that look better than designer brands, it's all dependent on style. Rather than buying jeans with garrish writing or excessive embellishments, choose denim with simple designs and accents. Try a funky top stitching color or a pair of jeans with an interesting back pocket design. If pinstriping is what interests you, keep the lines at approximately an inch apart. If the lines are too close, it can appear cluttered and add excess bulk to more curvacous frames.